14, 16 or 18 Momme Silk Twill? A Close Look at the Difference

When choosing silk for a custom scarf, the difference between 14, 16 and 18 momme might not seem significant. Place the fabrics side by side, though, and the differences become easier to appreciate.

Our 14 momme twill feels light and fluid, while the 16 and 18 momme fabrics have progressively more weight and structure. The difference is particularly noticeable when you handle the samples.

We have photographed all three weights up close to show how they compare, and to explain which might work best for different kinds of scarf projects.

What does momme actually measure?

Momme (often abbreviated to "mm", which has nothing to do with millimetres) is a measure of fabric weight. One momme is about 4.34 grams per square metre. The unit comes from the Japanese monme, a traditional weight of 3.75 grams that is still used in the pearl trade.

For a 90 cm square scarf, that works out to roughly 49 grams of fabric at 14 momme, 56 grams at 16 and 63 grams at 18, before hemming.

Momme tells you how much silk is in the fabric. It does not tell you about fibre quality, and on its own it does not determine how the weave looks, how colour prints or how the fabric feels. Yarn, weave construction, finishing and the printing process all play a part. Our guide to what momme means and which weight is best covers the unit across all types of silk.

Why weight matters in silk twill

Twill is woven so that the threads step across by one position on each row, which creates a fine diagonal line on the surface. Denim is also a twill weave, which is a useful reference even though the fabrics feel nothing alike. The diagonal structure gives silk twill a slight grip, so knots hold well, and a smooth, even surface that suits detailed prints.

Within the same twill construction, a heavier fabric generally has more body and moves less. It feels more substantial in the hand, holds a fold more firmly and is a little more opaque. A lighter twill moves more freely and ties more easily into a small knot.

Some of these differences show in photographs. Others, especially weight and handle, are easier to judge by touch. For how twill compares with satin, crêpe de Chine and chiffon, see silk twill vs satin vs crêpe de Chine vs chiffon.

14 momme silk twill

Of the three, our 14 momme twill has the finest diagonal and the softest sheen, a little like the grain on a well-brushed coat. It folds easily and ties into a small knot without much bulk.

It works well for scarves that will be worn often and tied: neckerchiefs, smaller squares, hair scarves and bag scarves. It is also the lightest and least expensive of the three, which can matter on a larger order.

16 momme silk twill

There is about 14% more silk per square metre in 16 momme than in 14 momme. Compared with our 14 momme twill, the 16 momme fabric has a more substantial feel and a slightly more pronounced diagonal texture. The difference is most noticeable when the two are placed side by side, as in the comparison photograph above.

It still drapes and ties well, but it settles more and moves less. That extra body can suit larger designs, premium fashion accessories and artist-designed scarves where a more substantial fabric is wanted. It is not automatically the better choice. For a small scarf tied close at the neck, the lighter weight may be more comfortable.

18 momme silk twill

Of the samples we photographed, the 18 momme twill has the most visible diagonal. In the photograph above, the grey fabric on the right shows a clear, almost corded texture, while the 16 momme beside it looks finer.

It is about 29% heavier than 14 momme. In the hand it has noticeably more structure and holds a fold firmly. That can work well for larger squares worn open over the shoulders and for pieces where a heavier feel is part of the design. For smaller scarves, or styles that rely on a soft knot, it can feel bulky.

Side-by-side comparison

Momme	Approx. weight	Twill texture in our samples	Handle and drape	Often suits
14	61 g/m²	Finest diagonal, soft sheen	Lightest, moves freely, ties small	Neckerchiefs, smaller squares, hair and bag scarves, larger runs
16	69 g/m²	Slightly more pronounced diagonal	More body, still drapes and ties	Premium accessories, artist scarves, special commissions
18	78 g/m²	Most visible, almost corded diagonal	Most structured, holds a fold	Larger squares worn open, heavier pieces

These are observations from our own fabrics. Silk twill from other mills can look and feel different at the same momme.

Printing and finishing

Single-sided and double-sided printing

With single-sided printing, the design is printed on the face of the silk, and the reverse may appear lighter than the printed face. The degree of colour penetration depends on the fabric and the printing process. In general, the more fabric the colour has to pass through, the more noticeable the difference can be.

Double-sided printing applies the design to both faces, aligned with each other. It gives a more consistent appearance on both sides, which can be particularly valuable for scarves designed to be worn in different ways: knotted, draped loosely or tied to a bag, where the reverse will show. It usually takes longer and costs more. For a scarf that will be framed or worn mostly flat, single-sided printing may be all you need.

With our standard silk printing process, white areas in the artwork are typically left unprinted, allowing the natural colour of the silk to show through. This is worth considering when a design includes large white areas or requires a very specific shade of white.

Hand-rolled hems

A hand-rolled hem is made by rolling the edge of the fabric by hand and securing it with small stitches. Heavier silk tends to give a fuller roll, while lighter twill gives a finer one. Neither is more correct. It depends on the look you want. Our guide to hand-rolled vs machine hems explains the options.

Choosing silk twill for your custom scarf

Before choosing a fabric weight, it helps to consider the design itself. A small scarf intended to be tied closely around the neck has different requirements from a large square designed to showcase an artwork. The size, print, finishing and intended use should guide the fabric choice, rather than momme alone.

With that in mind, as a starting point:

• 14 momme is a good choice for lightweight, versatile scarves, particularly smaller designs intended to be tied around the neck or worn in the hair.
• 16 momme is worth considering for premium fashion accessories, artist-designed scarves and special commissions where a more substantial fabric is wanted.
• 18 momme is an option where a heavier fabric and more structure are preferred, depending on the scarf's size and intended use.

Different projects tend to weigh these factors differently:

1. Artists usually focus on how the artwork reproduces. Fine detail prints well on all three weights, so the choice is mostly about how the finished piece should hang and feel, and whether the reverse will be seen.
2. Museums and galleries: the choice often comes down to how the scarf will be presented and sold. A 16 momme twill can offer a more substantial feel, while 14 momme may be better suited to smaller, lightweight designs.
3. Fashion brands tend to prioritise drape, handle and styling. It is worth handling the weights with the intended styling in mind before deciding.
4. Corporate gifting clients balance quality, budget and presentation. 14 momme keeps costs lower across a large run, while 16 momme gives a weightier gift.
5. Schools and organisations often prioritise design reproduction, comfort and overall cost. For larger orders, 14 momme twill can offer a practical balance between quality and budget.

Fabric weight also affects the cost of a custom scarf. The difference will depend on the scarf's size, quantity and finishing, so it is worth comparing the options before deciding. Our cost guide lists current prices, and our guide to momme weight for custom scarves covers the wider range of silks.

Photographs are useful for comparing texture and surface detail, but they cannot fully convey how a fabric feels or drapes. For projects where the choice of silk is particularly important, a finished sample can help confirm the fabric, printing and hem before production begins.

If you're developing a custom silk scarf, our Custom Studio offers 14 and 16 momme silk twill alongside other silk fabrics and finishes, and 18 momme is available by quote. We're also happy to advise on which weight may work best for your design. Email support@lssilk.com.au.

Frequently asked questions

Is 16 momme silk twill better than 14 momme?

It is heavier, not necessarily better. 16 momme has more body, while 14 momme is lighter and ties more easily. The right choice depends on how the scarf will be used.

Is 18 momme silk twill too heavy for a scarf?

It depends on the size and styling. On a large square worn open, the extra structure can look very good. On a small scarf tied at the neck, it may feel bulky.

Which silk twill weight is best for an artist-designed scarf?

There is no single answer. 16 momme suits many artist scarves where a more substantial feel is wanted, particularly at a premium price. 14 momme can be the better fit for smaller, wearable designs, and 18 momme for large pieces meant to be worn open or displayed.

Should I choose single-sided or double-sided printing?

Consider double-sided printing if the reverse will be seen, for example when the scarf is knotted or worn loosely. Single-sided printing can be enough for scarves that are framed or worn flat, and usually costs less.

Can I request samples before placing a custom order?

Yes, if you would like to. A finished sample is optional, but it can be useful when the choice of fabric is important to the project. Email support@lssilk.com.au for current sampling options and pricing.